Coniferous Bliss
In the kind of hot hot heat we’ve been experiencing lately, the greener notes used in perfumery can offer a direct and cooling kind of freshness that conjures the experience of sheltering from the midday sun underneath a dappled forest canopy of swaying firs. These overtly green notes - much like the trunks of coniferous trees - are rich with resinous materials, cloaked with camphor and engorged by aspects of eucalyptus.
Pines, firs, cypress trees and junipers… they’ve been used constantly in perfumery throughout the ages because of their cooling properties. Some of them might smell medicinal (like Vicks vapor rub), others might smell alive like toothpaste but the thing they all have in common is an overbearing sense of freshness. This timely collection features six separate fragrances that use some of the notes mentioned to provide that unique kind of serenely fresh coniferous bliss.

Panorama is defined by green. Its juice is a robust, vivid vision of the colour and it’s notes - bamboo shoots, wasabi, cardamom, fig tree leaves, cut grass and fir balsam - practically cover the entire spectrum of different shades. As a result it has an effervescent kind of immediate freshness that’s twisted with a spicy kick.

Hinoki cypress is very rarely used (we only have one formula with that material) and Nox is indeed a one of a kind perfume with its cool, aqueous character evoking aromas of fragrant wood and slate soaked in water.

You’d expect the juniper to be a pretty key motif in a fragrance called Gin & Tonic Cologne, considering that juniper is, of course, the flavour of gin. And in truth juniper really is at the heart of Art de Parfum’s cucumber spiked boozy extrait. It sings with kind of refreshment it’s namesake drink made it’s reputation on.

Here’s a question: how do you make a leather focused fragrance feel alive and fresh? Answer: Add dominant green materials like pine, cypress and galbanum to your formula. This is exactly what Etat Libre d’Orange did with Tom of Finland and it’s precisely what gives that synthetic leather facet its distinctive boost.

There’s also a pretty fine juniper impression in PG20 L’Eau Guerriere, but the scent’s true coniferous pleasure centre comes from the fragrance’s ample heart of frankincense - a perfect and silken green note that’s cleverly sandwiched between the bitterness of chinchona bark and the rounded slap of aloe wood.
PG20 L’Eau Guerrière by Parfumerie Générale by Pierre Guillaume

Inspired by the fog that accumulates at dusk in the Atria area of northern Italy, it stands to reason that Aer would boast an abundance of heavy, dewey aqueous, fresh notes. Juniper berries stand large at the heart of the fragrance, pre-empted by lemons and mint and bolstered by the perfume’s spine of elemi, cashmere wood and patchouli.
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