Smell To Taste | Fruity Perfumes
It's mid summer and we are picking formulas with fruit accords. Fruit is mostly a fantasy in perfumery as distilling something like apples, raspberries or mango is quite impossible (essentially one would get jam in the process). However, the aromachemical producers by now have a huge library of molecules that will smell fruity and recipes of how to mix them to create a certain fruit effect. These compositions are called ‘smell-to-taste’. This current edit covers straightforward fruity perfumes and formulas where a fruity nuance has been used to present a natural raw material in some unusual way.
Morello Cherries Fantasy
Cherries interpreted in a dark boozy way and accompanied by rose, vanilla, patchouli and licorice.
Braeburn Apples
This perfume captures the tender waxy bitter aroma that skins of apples acquire in Autumn. It is however a combination of saffron, leather and ambery benzoin that create this effect.
Strawberries Accord
The opening of the perfume is modeled on the silly fizzy joy of a strawberry margarita, but it’s a serious woody perfume afterwards built with vetiver, patchouli and labdanum.
Pear Tree Bark
The perfumer’s intent was to produce a feeling of being in an orchard just before the rain, taking refuge under a pear tree. Hence in Ciel d'Airainyou have the bark and leaves accords rather than the fruit, all shaded with ambergris for that dense just-before-the-summer-storm effect.
A Distant Orchard
An unconventional take on fig (a theme by now very well explored in perfumery), 16.1 is more of an attempt to create a salty breeze effect with ambergris, exotic Carob, salt, vetiver. The fig note is adding an indistinct fruity green shade which could be sea weed drying on the beach or aromas of a distant orchard or both.
PG16.1 Bois Naufragé by Parfumerie Générale by Pierre Guillaume
Raspberries
Raspberries nuance is nudged in between aromas of sandal, cocoa and rose. All these smells merge into a fantasy tart which seems to have been baked with a recipie from Alice in Wonderland.
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