The chypre recipe has been celebrated for 100 years now (if you start with Coty’s perfume of 1917 which gave the name to and really popularized the genre). It's still with us, still popular and is really worth checking out as a concept.
A chypre is when a perfume starts with zesty citruses (on the sweeter side), proceeds into a floral heart (rose and optional white flowers) and finishes woody (oakmoss and/or patchouli would be a staple ingredient), resinous (labdanum) or animalic (or all of the above). In 100 years there have been numerous interpretations: woody chypres, animalic, spicy, fruity, floral even green chypres. At Bloom we have various chypre options from very the vintage to modern reworks.
With this edit and pack you will be able to smell different chypres and hopefully at the same time note those common fragrant features that unite them into the chypre family.
A genuine 19th century formula
This perfume formula dates back to 1888. It's a genuine contemporary of the chypre genre and actually one of the first examples. It was created some 20 years before the Coty’s Chypre, but credit is still given to Coty for making this style of perfumes popular.
A neo-classic interpretation with materials not available in 19th century
An appropriately layered complex arrangement (as any chypre would be) following the classic outlines of citrus opening, floral heart (with a novel fruity plum blossom option) and a collection of woody and mossy notes in the drydown.
Mojito Chypre (Pierre Guillaume Cruise Collection)
A fruity modernist chypre
An example of a fruity chypre and often undeservedly dismissed as a strawberry fling. With chypres one has to wait and savor the evolution a formula undergoes as one wears it. From its uplifting, easygoing opening to its woodier and darker heart and drydown.
An 80’s chypre heavy on rose and leather nuances
A beautiful homage to the genre with a lot of focus on the rose (the gourmand Turkish variery) in the heart of this very layered perfume. Expect some serious bold animalic notes in the drydown too.
Orchid Man (Frapin)
An oakmoss centered masculine chypre
Let the name not mislead you. Orchid man was a nickname for a famous French boxer from 1920s. And ‘orchid’ in French is a nickname for balls (both literally and figuratively). The perfume follows a classic chypre structure with focus mainly put on oakmoss in the base of the fragrance. Flowers, citruses are all merely spectators watching the glorious oakmoss showing off its strength and vintage grandeur.
Rien (Etat Libre d’Orange)
An aldehydic leather chypre
A beautiful animalic chypre, with an aldehydic (rather than classic citrus) opening and seriously naughty leathery vibes provided by the cumin and labdanum duo.
Golden Chypre (Grossmith)
A spicy chypre
An example of a spicy chypre with all the classic ingredients present and laid out in a sophisticated style.
Russian Princess (Brocard)
A budget chypre by a famous perfumer
This perfume is about fairytale princesses who live in thick northern forests alongside magical creatures and treat lost travelers to strong smoky tea infused with exotic cloudberries, stone bramble, cranberries and guelder-rose berries for flavour and vitamins. They serve this tea in houses built of ancient giant trees logs, layered with moss for insulation… and if you look closely it’s also a chypre!
A stripped back minimalist chypre
A contemporary oriental chypre, with a generous vanilla rose heart and an even more generous dose of cinnamon. What makes it so modern is that you can easily recognize the key notes. Whereas originally perfumers would make chypres very complex layered and mysteriously kaleidoscopic.