A soft veil of smoke slowly settles over the darkness. Cinnamon and black pepper sharpens the silhouette, dry wisps of elemi and incense unfold, rosemary anchors. Leather, woods and earthy tones seep in with silent depth. By the end, a restrained warmth lingers like an afterglow. All Black reveals without showing.
Best Basilica by Milano Fragranze Alternatives & Similar Perfumes
Basilica by Milano Fragranze blends aromatic herbs like thyme and rosemary with smoky incense and warm woods such as sandalwood, cedarwood, and vetiver. The inclusion of a milk accord and labdanum adds a creamy, resinous depth that balances the herbaceous and smoky elements. Those drawn to complex, aromatic compositions with a smoky, woody base and subtle creamy nuances will find Basilica distinctive in its refined layering.
Beyond Lethe 不忘川 by Zhiwuzhi 挚物志 £120.00
- Key notes:
- cedarwood
- geranium
- incense
- nutmeg
- sage
- thyme
- Aromagroups:
- aromatic
- woody
In Greek mythology, the Lethe is the River of Forgetfulness in the underworld of Hades. In this shadowed realm, the crimson river coils like a ribbon through clouds of dark smoke. To ford the Lethe is to overcome the thunder and silence of solitude, reclaiming your name that burns like an eternal fire. Beyond Lethe starts this fire with the warm spice of nutmeg, softened by the herbal depth of mugwort and sage, creating a mysterious and contemplative beginning. Geranium and thyme unfold with a subtle aromatic clarity, before patchouli, incense and cedarwood deepen the composition, leaving a dark, meditative trail that feels ancient and enduring.
Perfumer: Ugo Charron
ARA(GON) by Mallo £220.00
- Key notes:
- coumarin
- cumin
- incense
- lavender
- oakmoss
- thyme
- wormwood
- Aromagroups:
- aromatic
- leather
- vintage/old school
Aragon is an olfactory tribute to the Aragon region of Spain, the birthplace of Mallo. A unique aromatic fougere, the scent showcases local aromatic plant extracts from cypress, basil, thyme, rosemary and artemisia. Added to this busy mix is the pipirigallo flower, exclusive to the region. The scent is rounded off by mossy, resinous elements for a warm, enveloping feel.
Mora by Wolf Brothers £130.00
- Key notes:
- cardamom
- fir
- hemp
- incense
- leather
- pepper
- petrichor
- thyme
- Aromagroups:
- aromatic
- green
- leather
- spicy
- woody
Perfumer: Cyrill Rolland
An interpretation of the winter solstice brightening into spring, the whisper of growth beneath the melting snow. The cold twang of grapefruit sparks against the heat of Szechuan pepper, while geranium’s complex rosy-minty profile deepens the rawness of hemp, vetiver and leather.
Play Black by Comme Des Garcons £95.00
- Key notes:
- birch tar
- black pepper
- black tea
- incense
- leather
- thyme
- Aromagroups:
- leather
- spicy
This EdT plays it dark but bright. A spiky black pepper opening commands attention, before being volumised by an ebony chorus of black tea, birch tar and incense. Tree moss and violet lend a perfumed earthiness.
Perfumer Antoine Maisondieu
Fiore di Cotone by Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561 £150.00
- Key notes:
- artemisia
- bergamot
- cardamom
- sandalwood
- thyme
- Aromagroups:
- aromatic
- citrusy
- spicy
"Fiore di cotone" is an Italian expression for "cotton flower", used to describe a fresh, clean scent. This EdP is powdery and green, thanks to the interplay of lavender with musk and bergamot. Artemisia lends a subtly herbaceous and bitter edge, putting a little starch in this smell of freshly-washed sheets.
To Vetiver by Comme Des Garcons £155.00
- Key notes:
- black pepper
- myrrh
- thyme
- vetiver
- Aromagroups:
- spicy
- woody
An olfactory poem in praise of the rugged elegance of vetiver. But despite being the subject, in this composition vetiver’s rich’n’rooty pleasures are folded into a harmony of resinous allies: the honeyed spice of opoponax and the licorice syrup of myrrh. Black pepper and thyme spike the flow, while musk and amber accords smooth the final stanzas.
Young Cossack by Anna Zworykina £95.00
- Key notes:
- castoreum
- hay
- leather
- oakmoss
- smoke
- thyme
- tobacco
- vetiver
- wormwood
- Aromagroups:
- leather
- woody
Ты меня не бойся,
Я тебя не трону,
Ты не беспокойся.
***
An intense, smoky herbal blend that, like all of Anna's creations, will transport you to an imaginary landscape.
It's inspired by Cossacks, the soldier-farmers who live in the steppes in the south of Russia, accomplished horsemen guarding the borders since the days of Catherine the Great.
You are welcome to devise your own story, but here at Bloom, we imagine a young Cossack resting among haystacks and wild herbs, smoking his clay pipe while contemplating the starry sky. His friends are sitting by the open fire nearby. Smoke is wafting through wild thyme and wormwood.
Starring
(these fragrant materials reanacted the Young Cossack story):
galbanum CO2 extract
artemisia annia essential oil
artemisia absinthium essential oil
immortel absolute
Seville lavender abs
thyme essential oil
tarragon essential oil
davana essential oil
guayak wood essential oil.
rose de May absolute
Morrocan rose absolute
cumin CO2 extract
frankincense absolute
petitgrain essential oil
geranium leaves absolute
myrth essential oil
costus absolute
oakmoss absolute
patchouli essential oil
labdanum absolute
tabacco absolute
tonka bean absolute
agarwood essential oil
vetiver essential oil
castoreum tinctura
Important notice:
Anna Zworykina’s blends are olfactive smellscapes (but neither aromatherapy, nor ‘spray-and-go’ perfumes). Her blends are sensory experiences, closer to works of art created in the scented plane (rather than, say, visual or audio).
Certain essential oils and absolutes that are used in her 100% natural perfumes may potentially cause allergies in some people. Please spray Anna Zworykina’s blends on fabric (on sleeves, scarves, etc.). This said, Anna Zworykina has acquired a huge fan base over many years and people interacted with her blends for quite a while now. We are not aware of any reports of any skin reactions so far.
However, Anna advises that those who are prone to allergic reactions, pregnant and nursing women, as well as people with chronic illnesses to be extra careful. Before trying natural blends, study the list of ingredients and consult with a doctor if you are not sure or a had a history of allergies. If you do decide to put these blends on your skin (unable to resist the temptation) always test the blend on the inside part of your elbow first and wait.
Do not spray these blends liberally as a cloud in the way you would spray a conventional perfume. Anna’s smellscapes need to be… carefully applied and experienced. Be mindful that some oils can also make your skin hyper-sensitive to UV.
Debonaire by Plowden & Fallow £108.00
- Key notes:
- lavender
- lemon
- neroli
- rosemary
- sandalwood
- vetiver
- Aromagroups:
- citrusy
- green
One has a sophisticated charm, confidence and sports impeccable tailoring, need we say more? Debonaire is your go to Plowden & Fallow fragrance for everyday wear be that wondering the streets of Chelsea, attending a mid-summer garden party, or those days spent in the office followed by a post work drink.
For here we have an example of aromatic tailoring of the finest order; a fragrant citrus head has been carefully woven into a delightfully musky floral base from which gentle woody notes ascend forth.
All Black by Insenf £125.00
- Key notes:
- black pepper
- castoreum
- gaiac / guaiac wood
- incense
- rosemary
- tobacco
- Aromagroups:
- aromatic
- leather
Rigor Mortis by Maqueda £290.00
- Key notes:
- beeswax
- chrysanthemum
- labdanum
- moth balls
- rosemary
- Aromagroups:
- unconventional
The setting: the aftermath of an unnamed catastrophe. The smell: the sweet meat smell of “just off” corpses, sloppily preserved with embalming fluids. The air fills with the uncomfortable energy of the formerly alive, transforming vitality into a haze of bilge water, metallic discharge and dried saliva. In Rigor Mortis, the mix between indolic florals, seaweed, and animalic beeswax and civet creates an emotional fragrance that needs to be discovered slowly.
About Basilica by Milano Fragranze
- What makes Basilica by Milano Fragranze unique compared to these similar fragrances?
- Basilica combines aromatic herbs like thyme and rosemary with smoky incense and a creamy milk accord, supported by warm woods such as sandalwood, cedarwood, and vetiver. This balance of smoky, woody, herbal, and creamy elements is distinctive and not fully replicated by the fragrances listed here.
- Are any of these fragrances suitable for those who dislike heavy smoke in perfumes?
- Fiore di Cotone and Debonaire offer fresher, cleaner interpretations with less emphasis on smoke. Both focus more on fresh herbs, citrus, and woods rather than pronounced smoky or leathery notes.
- Which fragrances on this list highlight the thyme note most prominently?
- Aragon, Mora, Play Black, Fiore di Cotone, To Vetiver, and Young Cossack all feature thyme as a key note, contributing an aromatic, herbal freshness that varies in intensity across each scent.









