Best Douce Amere by Serge Lutens Alternatives & Similar Perfumes

Perfumer: Nicolas Beaulieu

Conjuring the complexity of iced absinthe where the balance of heady wormwood and fresh ozonic greenery surrounds violet leaf for a seductive euphoric tone. This is set against a dark aromatic base that is smooth and warming. The head-turning diffusion of sweetened leathers and earthy woods offers a contemporary enticing edge.

According to ancient religious scriptures, Mary mother of Jesus was informed of her destiny by the Archangel Gabriel when she was about 13 years old. Artists over the centuries have been captivated by the idea of this scene, a startled schoolgirl recoiling in shock from the supernatural being. The lily, symbolizing purity and innocence, is not only a common element of these artworks, but is also the inspiration for this extrait. In principio, Latin for “in the beginning”, is a meditation on the creamy radiance of lily, supported by the down-low sensuality of ylang ylang. Mace, sweeter than nutmeg and softer than incense, lends clarity, while sweet/tart kumquat sharpens the focus.

Limited to 58 bottles, 48% extrait.

Blended with:

White lily absolute, 
Kumquat essential oil, 
Mace absolute, 
Nutmeg tincture, 
Bitter orange essential oil , 
Ylang Ylang essential oil, 
Elemi essential oil, 
Tuscan cypress essential oil, 
Pompia essential oil, 
Turkish rose absolute, 
Rosewood essential oil, 
Frankincense rivae, 
Juhi jasmine absolute, 
Cistus tincture, 
Ambergris.

Important notice:

Zanini blends are living botanical compositions, crafted entirely from natural materials and free from synthetic fixatives or stabilizers. As with all things living, subtle variations are part of their nature: over time, you may notice a gentle evolution in colour, texture, or the appearance of natural sediment. These are not imperfections, but part of the character of the raw materials themselves.

These blends are olfactive smellscapes (but neither aromatherapy, nor ‘spray-and-go’ perfumes) and sensory experiences, closer to works of art created in the scented plane (rather than, say, visual or audio).

Certain essential oils and absolutes that are used in Zanini’s 100% natural blends may potentially cause allergies in some people. Please spray Zanini’s blends on fabric (on sleeves, scarves, etc.). 

Zanini advise that those who are prone to allergic reactions, pregnant and nursing women, as well as people with chronic illnesses to be extra careful. Before trying natural blends, study the list of ingredients and consult with a doctor if you are not sure or a had a history of allergies. If you do decide to put these blends on your skin (unable to resist the temptation) always test the blend on the inside part of your elbow first and wait.

Do not spray these blends liberally as a cloud in the way you would spray a conventional perfume. Zanini’s smellscapes need to be… carefully applied and experienced. Be mindful that some oils can also make your skin hyper-sensitive to UV.

A pile-up of contrasts: cinnamon along with tropical florals frangipani and ylang ylang, against the earthy bitterness of artichoke and leather. This almost-gingerbread, almost-cement perfume confuses the senses with its animal/vegetable/mineral mystery.

A sweet fragrance with floral and balsamic notes that comforts, transports and illuminates. Its exceptional bouquet envelops us in softness and transports us to an eternal summer.

Perfumer: Serge de Oliveira

"I wanted to imagine the quintessence of floral elegance. This precious flower opens with a radiant freshness, before revealing a smooth and delicate heart. Over the hours, the note becomes comforting and enveloping, an invitation to savor each moment of calm before the world comes alive."

Nosy Be... sounds like a motto for an inquisitive perfume lover. It is, however, the name of a tiny island north of Madagascar. It's an island specializing in the production of patchouli, ylang-ylang and other magical fragrance materials for the perfume industry

One of the specialities of the island is ylang-ylang extract. Ylang Ylang Nosy Be is a tribute to both to the birthplace and the rich dramatic aroma of the flower. 

Perfumer: Dominique Moellhausen

The spirited country girl arrives in the bustle of the city, determined to change her status to “anything but innocent”. That’s Sweet Lure, bubbling with naughty possibilities. Cinnamon and lily-of-the-valley swirl in a bamboozling haze of neroli and vanilla, keeping things alluring but fun.

A fragrant and floral dedication to emotions and the intricate patterns that shape and run through the structure of our brains. Liquid joy prepared with balsamic labdanum, leathery orange blossom and violet leaf absolutes and a drop of fruity coffee nuance.

Perfumer: Luca Maffei

Strength: 35% extrait de parfum

The origin of some materials in the formula:

pink pepper -> South America

arabica coffee -> South America

cinnamon -> Sri Lanka

galbanum -> Iran

jasmine sambac -> India

violet leaf absolute -> Egypt

orange blossom absolute -> Tunisia

Ylang Ylang -> Madagascar

guaiac -> Paraguay

Vetiver -> Haiti

Labdanum -> Spain

Wet’n’wild, this perfume elevates the comforting smell of damp earth with the spicy sparkle of wormwood. Warm woods intertwine with smoky vetiver for a hallucinogenic blitz of green.

Aragon is an olfactory tribute to the Aragon region of Spain, the birthplace of Mallo. A unique aromatic fougere, the scent showcases local aromatic plant extracts from cypress, basil, thyme, rosemary and artemisia. Added to this busy mix is the pipirigallo flower, exclusive to the region. The scent is rounded off by mossy, resinous elements for a warm, enveloping feel.

“In rifleing the closet of the ladie, they found a pipe of oyntement, wherewith she greased a staffe, upon which she ambled and galloped through thick and thin, when and in what manner she listed”
– Proceedings Against Dame Alice Kyteler, Prosecuted for Sorcery, 1324

Hexensalbe, also known as witches’ flying ointment, was a hallucinogenic salve used in witchcraft in the middle ages. It was a mixture of extremely poisonous ingredients that produced an ecstatic trance with powerful sensations of flying, images of otherworldly creatures and a primal sexual hunger. 

But where did the witches’ broomstick come in? The ointment was too poisonous to eat, so instead it was applied to other soft membranes, commonly the genitals. Because of the erotic effects of the high, the salve would often be rubbed directly onto a phallic object like the end of a staff or a broomstick. (Now that’s what we call “riding a broomstick”!)

Given which aspects of the history of hexensalbe have been suppressed, it would seem that the one thing more terrifying than witches is female sexuality. This fragrance celebrates the forbidden rituals of personal power, summoning the ancient ways with dark aromatics: wormwood, liquorice, belladonna and black hemlock. Voluptuous tuberose and vibrant patchouli ensure a long and blissful trip.