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Perfume: Karine Vinchon

A new addition to Bloom’s portfolio, an elegant cologne with herbaceous and woody undertones.

With classic formulas it’s the quality of the ingredients that matters. Marie Jeanne might be a new perfume house, but it’s founded by a young perfumer from a family connected to Robertet for several generations.

Robertet is a bit like De Beers of the fine natural perfume materials, for decades they have been dealing with the finest, purest and most precious stuff a perfumer can dream of.

This is Marcel, a classic elegant herbaceous cologne but with highly likely the best bergamot from Italy, ylang-ylang from Madagascar, vetiver from Haiti and patchouli from Indonesia among other notes in the formula.

Nawab of Oudh is part of the Four Corners of the Earth collection and represents India, the land that gives us oud, a plethora of spices, and so many beautiful flowers.

The name of the perfume can be interpreted in two ways. It’s a literal reference to the rich history and culture of India: hawab or nabob meaning ‘the ruler’, and Oudh the historical name of the modern day Uttar Pradesh region. However, given the current fashion for oud perfumes, you can interpret the name “the oud to rule them all’.

Nawab of Oudh has the complex architecture of many ingredients, surrounding the oud heart deep within. And on the way there, you will travel through layers of cardamom and other fresh spices, extravagant garlands of exotic flowers, the sea breeze of ambergris, and more.

The elixir is also exceptionally concentrated, at 42% - hence the 'intensivo' in the title.

Matilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon I, was known for her breasts (“le plus beau décolleté”) and her talent as a painter. She also hosted a celebrated 19th-century Parisian salon attended by the greatest artists and writers of her time. This namesake perfume is an olfactory salon of provocative white florals (ylang-ylang, narcissus, jasmine) given tropical succulence with passion fruit and papaya. Mathilde’s heady brightness is softened by iris and sandalwood.

This “divine flower” is a luminous, untamed floral that captures the serenity of nature in motion. It starts bright and light: lemongrass and passion fruit, opening up to peony and lily of the valley. Watery, ethereal cyclamen drenches the richness of jasmine, ylang-ylang and narcissus like dew over a meadow. The drydown is green, a mingling of eucalyptus and sage with peppermint, juniper and pine, grounded by 
Mysore sandalwood and a hint of vanilla bourbon.

The epitome of femininity as narrated by the queens of flowers: Rosa centifolia and Rosa Damascena, crowned by powdery Ylang Ylang and Florentine Iris, with touches of Jasmine and mountain Narcissus, Violet leaves, Blackcurrant and oriental woods.

The unmistakable aroma of perfumed powders; the scent of face powder in a soft, gentle, enveloping fragrance. Subtly imbued with the richness of natural extracts from precious Rose, Jasmine and Ylang Ylang flowers to evoke the delicate beauty and femininity of the Belle Epoque.

The soft, gentle, enveloping fragrance of Teint de Neige in its most concentrated version. Recalling images and atmosphere of the belle-époque, with sweet and powdery notes of jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang on a base of musk, tonka beans and heliotrope.

Almaz, the Arabic word for diamonds, are renowned not only for their beauty, but also for their timelessness as they withstand millions of years of immense pressure in their formation. This EdP references the indestructible nature of diamonds with a powerful blackcurrant-led bouquet. Juiciness is enhanced with raspberry, while powdery heliotrope and musk add padding to the cushiony feel. The ambered base, redolent with vanilla and brown sugar, offsets blackcurrant’s tartness.
 
The jewelled bottle incorporates a poem composed by Elen Jeres Ayoub, portrayed in Eastern Kufic calligraphy. The words have been meticulously placed so that the vertical lines create eight zones on the bottle, representing the lunar phases in each lunar calendar month to represent the passage of time.

The seasons and their times
And pressures and their effects,
Bear Diamonds as their fruit.
-Elen Jeres Ayoub

The so-called “Hanamachi” (花街 literally “flower town”) was traditionally the area where geishas lived and worked. This intriguing perfume evokes the allure of an “oiran”, the highest-ranking courtesan, expressing the contradictory charms of innocence and worldliness. Iris adds ravishing powdery notes to a bouquet of rose and violet. The base of sensual agarwood creates a beautiful harmony suggesting bygone decadence.

Cécile Zarokian

Narcotics flowers, psychotropic herbs and haunted spices are the main ingredients of Kashnoir, the eleventh fragrance of Laboratorio Olfattivo, created after embarking on a long journey in search of the most forbidden and mysterious East. More than a fragrance, Kashnoir is a softly lethal drug, that obscures reason and stuns the senses. A powerful scent, which leads to oblivion, almost dangerous to the wearer.