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Perfumes Luca Turin Loved. 2020 Edit theme

You can order all perfumes featured in this theme as a pack of samples.

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In this theme

The perfumes featured below have been mentioned by Luca Turin in the several editions of his Perfumes: the Guide and his blog. These perfumes are varied and are worth trying for being unusual and groundbreaking, or featuring some exceptional materials or just for being examples of old-school craft.

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Vi et Armis Beaufort Vi et Armis (Latin): by force and arms

"Vi Et Armis smells like an alchemist’s Christmas party: a dark, rich, swirling combination of peat fire and flambé spice pudding, with some cough syrup and fence paint thrown in for hygiene. I have long wished for a fragrance like this one, and am impressed that such a sweet spot could be found in what is otherwise forbiddingly medicinal territory. Vi Et Armis arises from a combination of single-minded art direction and great technical skill."

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Iris Cendré Naomi Goodsir A noteworthy orris leather perfume

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Embers Rouge Bunny Rouge Ember. Plural noun: embers. A small piece of burning or glowing coal or wood in a dying fire.

“Embers smells so convincingly of burnt matches that it will probably set off smoke detectors in aircraft.”

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Le Mat Mendittorosa 5 Stars!

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Jasmin et Cigarette Etat Libre d'Orange They don't make perfumes like that anymore

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MAAI Bogue Profumo Maai /Italian/ “nee-ver!”

"I cannot overstate the joy that smelling something like this provides. It’s like sitting in the front row at the Vienna Philharmonic after listening to two months’ worth of ringtones: the sound is so glorious you don’t care if they play Die Fledermaus. And Maai is far better than that even, a big-boned, animalic woody chypre seemingly laden with every magnificent material we knew and loved before the End of History set in: musks, oakmoss, eucalyptus, cedar, bergamot, patchouli, sandalwood, jasmine, ylang, rose, tuberose, etc."

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T-Rex Zoologist 'Empyreumatic niche' according to Mr Turin

"[perfumer] wanted to use a lot of patchouli without anyone noticing, so he added equal amounts of other materials, among which cade wood and a lustrous, metallic rose material until —to my mind— he achieved a sort of anthracite, i.e. what happens to vegetal matter when subjected to enormous pressures and temperatures."

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Tobacco Tuberose Anna Zworykina Tuberose and lavender

"As in the brilliant Twilly d’Hermès, tuberose here subs in for the lavender in a traditionally masculine coumarin context, to excellent effect. Though Zworykina’s stated guiding principle is a perfumery of entirely natural materials, it somehow smells pleasurably of photocopier machines. ts"