You can order all perfumes featured in this theme as a pack of samples.
In this theme
The perfumes featured below have been mentioned by Luca Turin in the several editions of his Perfumes: the Guide and his blog. These perfumes are varied and are worth trying for being unusual and groundbreaking, or featuring some exceptional materials or just for being examples of old-school craft.
"Vi Et Armis smells like an alchemist’s Christmas party: a dark, rich, swirling combination of peat fire and flambé spice pudding, with some cough syrup and fence paint thrown in for hygiene. I have long wished for a fragrance like this one, and am impressed that such a sweet spot could be found in what is otherwise forbiddingly medicinal territory. Vi Et Armis arises from a combination of single-minded art direction and great technical skill."
“I always think of liquorice as vetiver’s friendly sibling, and it is an unusual note in perfumery, notably prominent in the great Yohji Homme and few others. To me liquorice is inseparable from childhood and a particular liquorice powder I used to buy for pennies in a small metal box called Coco Boer, recently revived. Liquo avoids needless complication in what should be, and is, an innocent fragrance. The drydown veers towards an entirely pleasant coumarinic tobacco note.”
"I cannot overstate the joy that smelling something like this provides. It’s like sitting in the front row at the Vienna Philharmonic after listening to two months’ worth of ringtones: the sound is so glorious you don’t care if they play Die Fledermaus. And Maai is far better than that even, a big-boned, animalic woody chypre seemingly laden with every magnificent material we knew and loved before the End of History set in: musks, oakmoss, eucalyptus, cedar, bergamot, patchouli, sandalwood, jasmine, ylang, rose, tuberose, etc."
"[perfumer] wanted to use a lot of patchouli without anyone noticing, so he added equal amounts of other materials, among which cade wood and a lustrous, metallic rose material until —to my mind— he achieved a sort of anthracite, i.e. what happens to vegetal matter when subjected to enormous pressures and temperatures."