You can order all perfumes featured in this theme as a pack of samples.
In this theme
In this edit we explore the materials/notes in perfumery that come from under the ground.
There aren’t many roots in perfumery and most of them are technically rhizomes (underground stems), but there is a royal perfume material among them: orris. It comes from the roots (rhizomes) of iris. The note of iris in perfumes is a woody/leather note coming from the twisted bulb that forms under the ground. The iris flowers have no distinct aroma and cannot yield any material useful to perfumers. The rhizomes however, when dried, pulverized and extracted produce a material (orris butter) that has a complex (musky, ambery, green, fruity and leathery) pleasant and extremely long lasting aroma.
The other star root is vetiver. It comes from tropical locations such as Haiti, India, Indonesia and so on (we also have a Dorset vetiver in our perfume portfolio). This root has a dry spicy, ambery aroma occasionally with a green or salty nuance.
Then you have relatively the rare calamus and asafoetita and a bit easier to come across angelica and ginger. For the enclosed selection and corresponding sample pack we picked perfumes with a distinct note of one the fabulous perfumery roots.
Try for home grown angelica which is the core of this composition. Angelica has a wonderful soft spicy, with a touch of sunny spring green character with a bit of a dandy herbaceous nuance. In The Hour of Dusk and Gold it’s the dusk part (along with carrot seed and orris), the gold shimmer is introduced with nutmeg and vanilla.
Try this perfume to get an idea of how the warehouse where they dry, mature and process iris roots might smell. The air would be musky, sweet in the unique powdery orris way, with a hint of an ancient Vatican library and the alchemist-herbalists lab at the same time.
Calamus is technically a rhizome not a root and its extract has a "milk-truck" or "shoe-repair shop" odor. This material works beautifully in crisp leather perfumes, but for some reason it is not very common in perfume formulas nowadays. Luckily, we have a beautiful calamus perfume in our collection. In this formula this material is in the truly royal company of osmanthus, wild vanilla and precious resins.