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In this theme
This edit explores the magic of green in perfumery: nuances of cut grass, snapped stems, green tea, sweet fig and new glossy leaves. Such effects can be achieved with a few natural materials and plenty of aromachemicals (often they replicate natural compounds, it’s just they are synthesized rather than distilled).
The number of natural materials smelling green available to perfumers is rather limited. After all green is the smell of freshly cut stems or leaves and once these get distilled the fresh green aroma is not there anymore. However, there is galbanum resin that smells like chopped runner beans; mastique with its leathery green olives kind of green and there is mimosa with its powdery sunny green.
When it comes to aromachemicals and green fantasy accords there is much more choice. From these perfumers can create the fantasy notes of green tea, fig, cut grass, bamboo, cucumber or even wasabi. Synthetically derived aroma compounds enable perfumers to override the nature’s ways and capture the fresh green of cut grass as if by magic.
In this edit you will find both perfumes with natural materials that smell green as well as a few green fantasies. Often a perfume will contain both for a convincing stereo green effect.
The 19th century fougere formula was a perfume breakthrough in terms of twisting nature’s ways for artistic purposes. Chemists found a way of producing coumarin (a molecule with a bitter-sweet green odor of fresh hay). Coumarin occurs in many plants: from grass to tonka beans but now perfumers could turn up the volume of this green powdery nuance of coumarin as much as they wished. Coumarin vibes are essential for fougeres. Malachite Flower is a classic retro fougere with a very distinct clean herbaceous woody character with a green twist.
Green according to Bertrand Duchaufour. In Brocard's new project 'Color feeling', the perfumer is opening the aromatic curtains into the green theater of nature: the tropical forests and arctic fields, the tiny sprouts and giant trees, the fresh green force above the earthy quiet of the soil - everywhere. Following this green vector, the perfumer starts with earthy violet leaf and nutmeg and then proceeds into fresh sandalwood and a cut grass accord, and then into bergamot and icy aldehydes.
An infinitely complex green, as deep as the ocean (the inspiration for Fathom V). To create the effect of the magical decent through ocean’s emerald waters Beaufort set a progression of green material from light to dark. From the artificially bright green leaves note and fresh aromatic juniper, to rich mimosa, the evergreen vibes of frankincense and finally dark earthy green of vetiver.
A good example of how natural oils and synthetics together create a convincing olfactive landscape. Aube Pashmina is about a garden in the morning. Whereas basil, rosemary and geranium give your imagination the context, the synthetic notes of tomato leaves and cut grass add the theatrical green brightness to the herbarium.
This perfume is named after the mastic resin (also called lentisque) but also has a big galbanum presence. Both materials are the ultimate natural green options in perfumery. Galbanum smells like chopped beans and mastique is slightly more earthy and balsamic.