Perfumer: Julien Rasquinet
Iris Cendre acts cold and green at the opening with the help of bergamot and frankincense, but as the perfume unfolds and smoke lifts, orris appears in its creamy gourmand seductiveness.
All about this fragrance
Vibe check
This is the kind of scent that suits close conversation in a dim room, where its smoky iris and tobacco feel intimate rather than loud. It projects a composed, slightly enigmatic presence: polished, tactile and a little old-world, with a dry powdery trail that lingers near the skin.
How to wear
Best in cool weather or air-conditioned settings, Iris Cendré wears well with a light hand: one to three sprays are enough to let the iris, incense and tobacco unfold gradually. On skin it starts colder and greener, then warms into a creamy, smoky softness with moderate diffusion and a refined, persistent trail.
Who it’s for
For wearers who like iris with texture and contrast rather than a clean floral profile. It will appeal to those drawn to powdery woods, incense, leather and tobacco, especially if they enjoy vintage character, smoky restraint and a unisex, slightly austere elegance.
Release year
2015
The nose
Julien Rasquinet is a French perfumer known for textured, characterful compositions that often balance raw materials with a modern sense of restraint. His work for Naomi Goodsir helped define the house’s early identity, with Iris Cendré showing his ability to turn iris into something smoky, buttery and tactile rather than merely floral. Rasquinet’s style tends to favor atmosphere and material contrast: incense against florals, woods against leather, smoke against softness. In Iris Cendré, that approach gives the iris a grey-green, almost ash-like elegance, while preserving a creamy richness that keeps the fragrance from becoming austere.
Collaborators
Naomi Goodsir and creative director Renaud Coutaudier shaped the fragrance’s artistic direction, working closely with Julien Rasquinet to keep the composition aligned with the house’s rebellious, handcrafted aesthetic. Their collaboration emphasized raw materials, especially iris, and a deliberately independent, non-commercial spirit.
Naomi Goodsir’s story
Naomi Goodsir Parfums translates the designer’s millinery world into fragrance with an artisanal, independent mindset. The house favors distinctive compositions, tactile materials and a slightly punk, vintage-leaning elegance, often blurring gender lines and treating perfume as a personal artistic object rather than a trend-driven accessory.
Iris Cendré’s concept
Iris Cendré was developed from early 2013 and released in September 2015 as Naomi Goodsir’s first iris-centered fragrance. Julien Rasquinet built it around the idea of iris seen through ash and smoke, using rich iris material to create a grey-green, creamy effect that feels both refined and slightly untamed.
Extra info
Iris Cendré was Naomi Goodsir’s first iris-focused fragrance. Its name, meaning “ash iris,” reflects the smoky concept behind the composition and the grey-green impression created by the iris material. It is often discussed as one of the house’s signature releases.
Perfumer: Julien Rasquinet
Iris Cendre acts cold and green at the opening with the help of bergamot and frankincense, but as the perfume unfolds and smoke lifts, orris appears in its creamy gourmand seductiveness.
All about this fragrance
Vibe check
This is the kind of scent that suits close conversation in a dim room, where its smoky iris and tobacco feel intimate rather than loud. It projects a composed, slightly enigmatic presence: polished, tactile and a little old-world, with a dry powdery trail that lingers near the skin.
How to wear
Best in cool weather or air-conditioned settings, Iris Cendré wears well with a light hand: one to three sprays are enough to let the iris, incense and tobacco unfold gradually. On skin it starts colder and greener, then warms into a creamy, smoky softness with moderate diffusion and a refined, persistent trail.
Who it’s for
For wearers who like iris with texture and contrast rather than a clean floral profile. It will appeal to those drawn to powdery woods, incense, leather and tobacco, especially if they enjoy vintage character, smoky restraint and a unisex, slightly austere elegance.
Release year
2015
The nose
Julien Rasquinet is a French perfumer known for textured, characterful compositions that often balance raw materials with a modern sense of restraint. His work for Naomi Goodsir helped define the house’s early identity, with Iris Cendré showing his ability to turn iris into something smoky, buttery and tactile rather than merely floral. Rasquinet’s style tends to favor atmosphere and material contrast: incense against florals, woods against leather, smoke against softness. In Iris Cendré, that approach gives the iris a grey-green, almost ash-like elegance, while preserving a creamy richness that keeps the fragrance from becoming austere.
Collaborators
Naomi Goodsir and creative director Renaud Coutaudier shaped the fragrance’s artistic direction, working closely with Julien Rasquinet to keep the composition aligned with the house’s rebellious, handcrafted aesthetic. Their collaboration emphasized raw materials, especially iris, and a deliberately independent, non-commercial spirit.
Naomi Goodsir’s story
Naomi Goodsir Parfums translates the designer’s millinery world into fragrance with an artisanal, independent mindset. The house favors distinctive compositions, tactile materials and a slightly punk, vintage-leaning elegance, often blurring gender lines and treating perfume as a personal artistic object rather than a trend-driven accessory.
Iris Cendré’s concept
Iris Cendré was developed from early 2013 and released in September 2015 as Naomi Goodsir’s first iris-centered fragrance. Julien Rasquinet built it around the idea of iris seen through ash and smoke, using rich iris material to create a grey-green, creamy effect that feels both refined and slightly untamed.
Extra info
Iris Cendré was Naomi Goodsir’s first iris-focused fragrance. Its name, meaning “ash iris,” reflects the smoky concept behind the composition and the grey-green impression created by the iris material. It is often discussed as one of the house’s signature releases.